I walked across Broadway south to Sixth, a walk I’d done many times in the past. On Sixth, I passed the beat-up doors of the old fortune teller, now shuttered. I was on my way to that dank oasis in the middle of the concrete depths, Cole’s, the disputed French dip originator and pre-Prohibition bar that nourished countless L.A. workers, politicians, mobsters, poets, and artists alike.



